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For the latest secrets in face care and anti-ageing please keep this page bookmarked. News from around the world, covering the face care and anti-aging section of the beauty industry.
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Milk derivative peptides are yet another break through in fighting signs of ageing. DSM nutritional products, have launched BeauActive™ MTP, a milk derived peptide.
A common view of the activity of peptides is that they mimic skin proteins effectively increasing collagen production. For a fuller perspective on peptides join our newsletter and for a brief perspective on collagens effect on ageing skin see home facials.
DSM has developed and patented a new and unique proline-specific enzyme which which acts by cutting into the amino acid chain, rather than extending it from the ends. Proline is a very abundant amino acid in skin proteins and one of the richest sources of proline, from a natural origin, is casein, the most prominent protein found in milk.
Milk is an excellent source of well balanced nutrients and exhibits a range of positive biological effects and Bioactive peptides, which are defined as specific protein fragments that have a positive impact on body functions are both found in BeauActive™ MTP. In studies it was shown that BeauActive™ MTP rejuvenates skin cells, by stimulating keratinocytes, which help in skin renewal and fibroblasts, which are responsible for the synthesis of many tissue proteins, including collagens, the effect in the studies demonstrated BeauActive™ MTP helping the skin to fight against the signs of aging. As additional effect, BeauActive™ MTP increases moisture content of the skin.
This is another interesting product, which we can expect to see introduced into cosmetics products over the coming months.
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Coleus oil, an extract from the Coleus forskohlii, a plant from the mint and lavender family, has been shown to have significant benefits in treating skin breakouts.
It is also the only known plant source of the biologically active compound, forskolin, which has potential application in cancer, glaucoma and other treatments.
Coleus oil is a byproduct of forskolin extraction. In laboratory studies, Coleus oil was found to effectively inhibit the growth of skin pathogens commonly associated with acne.
As part of the face cleansing regime, this scrub makes an ideal companion to daily cleanse, tone and moisturise, (see - face care the basics).
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Soya beans extract, has proven benefits in collagen protection.
Flavanoids are active compounds found in plants, which may posses disease preventative properties and are comprise plant colourants, isoflavones create the white and yelow white colours.
Soya isoflavones have been well documented as a natural alternative to estrogen. Several studies show that estrogen therapy preserves collagen content and so elastic properties and thickness of the skin.
Genistein, is the principal isoflavone in soya bean and has been demonstrated to have a positive effect on collagen, through its ability to inhibit protein tyrosine kinases, which causes collagen to breakdown, simultaneously as an estrogen receptor binding agent, Genistein stimulates the production of new collagen.
Clinical studies demonstrate there are clear benefits to skin thickness in applying Genistein as a cream, further study is required to confirm whether it is the ability of Genestein to inhibit protein tyrosine kinase, or the binding properties with estrogen.
Genistein seems to reduce the risk for some hormone related cancers, principally breast cancer and prostate cancer, again, quite how this works is still being investigated.
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Garden cress is a second generation anti-oxidant, launched in April 2007 in Paris as Detoxophane.
Cress sprouts are the source of a cosmetic ingredient rich in isothiocyanates, which are clinically proven to detoxify environmental pollutants and to neutralize reactive oxygen species. 4 to 5 day old garden cress sprouts were used as the raw material to produce the cosmetic ingredient Detoxophane.
In a study during the winter with subjects who worked mainly outdoor where they are exposed to low humidity, cold winds and pollution, the cress sprout ingredient was found to increase skin firmness and smoothness.
By activating the skins natural detoxification system, the product becomes an effective anti-ageing product, whilst protecting against environmental damage.
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Resveratrol, an antioxidant found in grapes and red wines
Resveratrol, has proven to be highly effective in improving the skins elasticity and firmness. It is is an antibiotic produced by plants when under attack by bacteria, fungi and other substances that can cause disease or illness.
The much-acclaimed phenomenon of the "French Paradox", whereby much lower incidents of skin cancer and heart disease, than anticipated, are reported, would appear to have much to do with wine and in particular Red wine. In laboratory conditions, data clearly demonstrated that topical application of resveratrol resulted in a highly significant inhibition of tumor incidence.
As well as being proven beneficial for the heart it also reduces the
formation of blood clots, it opens arteries, helps prevent cancer and importantly is an anti-oxidant.
Resveratrol, is an exceptional free-radical scavenger
extracted primarily from mulberries and grapes. Clinical studies show
that resveratrol protects collagen through two mechanisms: 1) by
inhibiting enzymes that degrade collagen, and 2) by supporting existing
collagen structures.
This collagen protection, has shown resveratrol to be highly effective in fighting skin ageing. Cellex-C Advanced C Skin Tightening Cream is a lightweight cream, which with regular use will help increase the
elasticity and resilience of the skin to greatly reduce the signs of
ageing.
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New Zealand, wool and Keratin, are not a combination which springs readily to mind when considering the latest anti-ageing beauty secret.
In an article in Nature (which is one of the worlds leading science journals) the May edition in 2006 showed how Keratin protein provide both structural support to cells and proactively promote cell growth.
Keratec, a New Zealand biotech company has developed a method of extracting it from wool in a soluble, digestible form by separating wool fibre into its constituent keratin parts.
Keratin is naturally occurring, a structural protein that is a significant constituent in skin, hair and nails protein, it plays an important role in biological systems and is a fundamental component in the body’s processes for promoting new cell growth and healing.
The Keratec, Functional Keratin™,was awarded a patent in the just over a year ago, covering the manufacturing process underlying its Functional Keratin™ range of personal care and medical products and technologies.
Additional research has shown that Functional Keratin™,has significant anti-oxidant activity and is an important source of amino acids. Along with their US-based partner Keraplast, the company owns worldwide rights to using keratin in medical applications and is a leader in development and manufacture of a range of keratin based markets, including consumer products.
At the April 2007 Paris cosmetics show, Keratec launched its new Functional Keratin™ line with Cynergy TK (topical keratin) and Cynergy NK (nutritional keratin) and in the same month was approved as Halal for the global market.
Cynergy is believed to have positive effects in skin appearance, repealing the effects of aging and providing protection against future skin damage and helping to bind moisture. In addition, both products contain zinc and copper complexes, which help repair and maintain skin, they also contains recognized free-radical scavengers.
Keratec, claim Cynergy can improve skin elasticity, hydration and skin cell antioxidant activity, and that these claims are backed up by human data.
Some branded products already exist on the market that combine an oral and a topical component, such as Ferrodan's Imedeen and Procter and Gamble's Olay/Olay Vitamins. But neither of these contain keratin.
In April of this year, Roxlor International LLC and Keratec Limited formed a strategic partnership to further the development of Keratec's Cynatine FLX and Cynergy NK products. Roxlor will take over the worldwide marketing of the brands as well as the production of the powder forms of the ingredients.
So what does all this mean in the real world…?
Cynergy TK™ addresses skin health through topical use and Cynergy NK™ addresses skin health as an oral supplement. The oral component can be incorporated into capsules, beverages and food bars. The topical component can be incorporated into skin creams and toners or any other product where the intent is to deliver healing nutrients directly to the skin or hair.
Cynergy™ is a natural bioactive keratin, which has been demonstrated to be capable of both reversing the effects of aging skin and also protecting the skin against future damage. Until now cosmetics contained keratin for skincare and personal-care applications which was not bioactive or particularly functional. The Functional Keratin™ in Cynergy™, however, works synergistically on human skin when taken both in the topical form and as an oral supplement, as it is still bioactive.
The metal-protein complex has been shown to have a beneficial effect on skin. ensuring that the Functional Keratin™ in Cynergy™ remains both bio-available to the body, and highly effective at supporting and maintaining healthy and youthful looking skin.
Cynergy™ has 4 key actions in fighting visible signs of ageing.
1. Cynergy™ reduces fine line and wrinkles-Scientific data indicates that it promotes the proliferation of skin
cells. Both zinc and copper, once bound to a protein, have been shown to be very effective in regenerating
new tissue and increasing the synthesis of structural proteins such as collagen.
- Cynergy™ promotes firmness and elasticity in the skin. –Tests have shown Sustained improvement in moisture retention of 14% over 18 days. Sustained improvement in elasticity of 42% over 18 days. Rapid improvement in moisture retention of 27% and 22% over 2.5 and 24 hours respectively.
- Cynergy™ reduces redness associated with inflammation and sensitive skin. -Cynergy NK™ blocks PGE2 production, the major biochemical pathway leading to inflammation and redness in the skin. If left unchecked, over time, this inflammation will lead to a further breakdown of important structural protein in skin.
- Cynergy™ improves the brightness and radiance of skin. –It promotes the bodies own natural antioxidant activity. Unlike most antioxidants that require one molecule of antioxidant to be sacrificed for every free radical, one molecule of the Cynergy™ enzymatic antioxidants can quench millions of free radicals.
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Curcuminoids : Antioxidant Phytonutrients from Turmeric Roots
Curcumin has been shown to up regulate antioxidant activity and inhibit inflammatory enzymes. The multifunctional health benefits of the curcuminoids are well researched and these antioxidant compounds are potentially useful in preventing inflammation and several types of cancer useful as ingredients in anti-aging formulations and in topical creams.
Turmeric, from which curcumin is extraced,is widely used in South Asian cooking. The antioxidant effects of curcuminoids make them ideal formulations to maintain general skin health and integrity.
Avon, are ahead of the competition here, having introduced their Anew Clinical laser range. Avon claims its “laser” system targets and corrects the appearance of dark spots, mild redness and broken capillaries, to address the “signs that go beyond the lines and wrinkles” of aging.
What is unique about Clinical Laser is the inclusion of three curcumin-derived ingredients: demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin and tetrahydrocurcumin (T Curcumin).
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